Has it changed?
I'm going back to Srinagar for the first time in 7 years. Last time I went there were still curfews and road blacks and everyone was on high alert. What I want to know is has it improved? Is is safer? Will I be able to go to Gulmarg and all the other tourist destinations, or will I be forced to go out during the day and back home before it gets dark? Any advice, or recommendations of places to see while I'm there (that are off the tourist trail) would be appreciated!!



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