A commentary on both Kashmir and its roads. Written in 2003 after many a frustrations during a six month visit to Kashmir. Rough draft. To be edited in the future as time permits. A very long read (and admittedly at times painfully so!)?. but being on the loquacious side when it comes to things close to my heart, I cannot help it..... : )

Kashmir, roads and reflection: A commentary

It?s a miracle. It?s a miracle how people survive in Kashmir. And I don?t mean from the daily shootings and explosions.

I am talking about the state of affairs on our roads ? that is if they can be called that. Roads are the backbone of a nation and say much about that society. Just like blood vessels are essential for the existence of a living, breathing body, good roads are paramount for the survival and prosperity of any civilization. But if roads are a sign of where a nation stands and its future potential, then Kashmir will unlikely reach anywhere fast.

Just a mere look at any street here in Kashmir makes one realize how our roads have not kept up with the times. Most of the roads, including the major Srinagar- Anantnag ?highway,? remain the same size as they were first built. And often times the only step towards ?improvement? that one can see is the oft traffic-stopping event of re-tarring the main roads. However, some credit does go to the government for expanding some of the present roads by reclaiming the land adjacent to these that had been ?borrowed? by some people. It seems that these entrepreneurial business folk felt that with each foot of land they brought under their wings, their business would take a more profitable flight. Where our sense of honesty goes when money comes into the equation, only God knows.

But I believe that even these current efforts at expansion can only solve the problem by so much. It will certainly not alleviate the current crisis as these present improvements will only bring the roads to the state they should have been many, many years ago. Although a step in the right direction, the government needs to broaden its horizons. We need to come up with a better public transport system, looking into all environmentally friendly modes available. But before such adventurous initiatives, the least we can do is realize that the current roads still follow the same paths they used to tread in the times of now almost extinct tongas, when only an occasional mechanical vehicle would dare disturb the natural and tranquil beauty that was Kashmir.

While villages, towns and even cities have been carved up alongside these access routes, no initiative has been taken to look for other areas through which new major roads can be constructed. A solution to the present crisis of transport in Kashmir should definitely include this among the priorities. And of course when such projects are assigned by the government, they should not go to some official?s relative but to an honest, deserving and competent authority in the field. Checks and balances need to be created such that whoever the project is assigned to will not abuse the system. Funds for a twenty five foot wide road should not result in a fifteen foot wide path and a brand new Maruti for the one the project was contracted to.

Small roads are but only one aspect of the traffic problem Kashmir is engulfed in. With affluence -- at times of dubious origins -- rampant in the valley, hardly a house exists that does not have some latest mode of transport. And with the needs of a changing society, with its work and other demands, families often now have more than one vehicle. Combined with the population explosion, the number of vehicles has further increased creating further congestion on the roads. Even those without some sort of a vehicle make for dangerous conditions as they walk on these jam-packed roads. Drivers become angry at these pedestrians but if we, those who have been blessed by God with the means to buy some vehicle, think about it, what is the pedestrian to do when there are no sidewalks and other walkways? Its unfortunately a vicious cycle that is created and the only solution is for those in power to take some more decisive action that can truly alleviate the state of affairs.

Having lived abroad for quite some time now, I actually sometimes wonder whether any initiative by the government will really solve the road problems here in Kashmir. Anyone who has been on our roads will know exactly what I am talking about. Common sense is not so common out there for everyone seems to leave home without it.

Lets start with the lowest in the pecking order, namely the bold pedestrian I mentioned. Although true that there are no sidewalks as I mentioned, where is the pedestrian?s common sense while on the road? He (or she) is often seen crossing the street in heavy traffic, running from one side to the other, as if he cares not for his life. After all, though he may be justified in his quest to cross the street, he is still but one person in front of large and fast moving machines. Shouldn?t he or she take more care to find a more suitable place to cross? Even the chicken from the old adage ?Why did the chicken cross the road?? I am sure knows that, saying or no saying, this chicken is not going to cross those deadly roads at certain junctions. I therefore suggest all bold men and women to take more care while crossing those streets for we are but miniscule mortals in front of those machines with the steering wheels.

I have actually even seen -- with my own eyes -- a mother spot a gap between two cars and literally almost push her young child ? six years old at best ? through to the other side. Have the past fifteen years of turmoil hardened our nerves so much so that we play such risky games? Then there are little children dashing through little side streets onto main roads, busy in play and na?ve to the danger that surrounds. This I am sure has happened to many. The kids are but innocent bystanders in this, doing what kids are bound to do but where are their parents? Granted that not all of us have nice big lawns in front of our houses but having no play place for the little ones is no excuse for leaving them to find one for themselves. Other than the occasional mishap that may happen by chance, it?s the responsibility of the elders to make sure that children are safe and out of hazards way. This is especially true because even the most novice and careless seem to have found their way to go behind the wheel of a pretty new car paid for either by their rich Dad or a huge interest based loan from the bank.

Getting back to those bold pedestrians I mentioned earlier, often are seen among them the two college age friends walking carelessly, arms around each other?s shoulders, telling some tall tales. I have nothing against public display of such strong friendships but while they are busy talking, it seems that they often times fail to realize that in their gap-chup they have unknowingly started walking in the middle of the street. And like them, there are of course then the two older gentlemen who see each other from the opposite sides of the street, and from the looks of it seem to be seeing each other after a long time. But just like the college going kids, they too seem to find the middle of the road the best place to come together, shake hands and give each other a tight Kashmiri naalmut. Again, nothing against sharing greetings and such affection for each other but the middle of the road is not the best place to be doing such sharing.

Now on to those who have ?progressed? in this worldly life and found means to move faster. The cyclist I believe deserves credit for he is using something that doesn?t harm the environment and at the same time is keeping fit. But if he is bold enough to go on the Kashmiri roads, he should realize that even a cyclist needs a small helmet. In the U.S. for example, one can get fined for not wearing a helmet designed for the bicyclist. The young are often among the ones who venture on to the streets with their bicycles and more often than not, fascinated with speed, end up taking unnecessary risks. While riding their bicycles on a small side road, most bicyclists often don?t realize that slowing, and at times even stopping, well in advance of an intersection with a major road is essential for one cannot always leave things to luck, hoping that no fast moving vehicle is approaching. And even though the cyclist knows that turning is part of riding, he often is seen swirling around without caring to indicate this to those behind him. And unfortunately some of the older men, still caught in those times which I myself wish existed today, don?t realize that their riding bicycles at their age and in today?s traffic is a grave risk especially when done without a helmet of some sort. With everything that surrounds, this adds an additional hazard.

Ah, the Kashmiri Tongas. Just close your eyes and imagine yourself back in those times when they used to be the main mode of transportation. Imagine sitting at the back of the tonga, moving slowly and passing through the Kashmir that was then. Lush green meadows carpeting the sides of the roads, a natural velvet that provided an unexplainable soothing relaxation for the mind. Rivers gushing forth under the beautiful sun, shining and seeming to be flowing with milk rather than water. Chinar trees providing their shade and in their structure, with antique trunks and bright green leaves, a charm like no other. Walnut trees standing tall and trees on end in orchards full with fruits. And the tall mountains that surround, seeming like hands stretched out in prayer, making some dua. And the clear skies with immaculate white clouds that captivate minds young and old. Kashmir wasn?t known to be the ?Paradise on Earth? for no reason. If the above wasn?t a glimpse into paradise, what is and what can be? And yet we have shamelessly brought devastation to this priceless gift from God that we had.

Now the tongas have pretty much disappeared and the few that remain add to the problems on the roads, for the small roads we have cannot have both a slow moving tonga and a fast paced motor vehicle given the dangers that will ensue. Instead of trying to save this old-fashioned means of transport, keeping some as mementos in parts of the towns and cities, we are slowly squeezing them out of the Kashmir picture. And instead of the above mentioned serene picture of a paradise, if one now sits at the back of a tonga, and tries to close ones eyes to even imagine the tonga moving through the Kashmir of years back, deafening horns will provide a rude awakening. And if the honks aren?t enough to stir one out of that pleasant dream, then the not so polite words shouted by those in motor vehicles is likely enough to do the trick.

And one wakes up to realize that almost each of the lush green meadow that together gave the landscape a silky touch, has been transformed into a brick fortress. Houses, upon houses, upon houses have been built in haphazard order where once those green fields stood. Narrow lanes divide one brick walled castle, with its towering walls, from another. Numerous unnamed lanes wind here and there and driving through them is like being a rat in a maze. Neighbors on each side of the lanes don?t seem to realize that moving their walls just a foot inside would provide for a more comfortable route, for them as well as others. But such consideration, where one thinks not just of self but of the greater good, it seems is a taboo thing in Kashmir. It is as if instead the thought process has changed to something like, because giving up that tiny strip of land would provide comfort to the neighbors, one should not do it. Forget the fact that ones own problem of daily having to squeeze past an on coming car may be alleviated. History is evidence that from the Kashmiri leaders of the past to the common man, we seem to think only of ourselves, disregarding completely how we may advance our society as a whole. The common man struggling for his own survival may be excused, but with those at the helm of affairs usually more interested in personal gains, it makes for the biggest part of the tragedy that is Kashmir.

One will also wake up to see that rivers that once gushed forth are now but small streams that quietly make their way as pollution has had its toll on the climate, resulting in an overall decrease in snowfall. Chinar trees remain but their leaves are no longer bright green but darkened with dust and soot. Walnut trees and orchards still exist at places but their produce is less in quality and quantity. And the tall mountains are slowly disappearing behind the smog the Indian manufactured vehicles spew out day and night. The outlines of the few remaining mountains that can be seen behind the haze that cover our skies seem now to instead be like clenched hands pleading with God for mercy. Mercy from our wrath as we ravage this once unadulterated place. And instead of the white clouds captivating our minds, we are held captive by the smoke that surrounds. Thick smoke continues to surge out of gigantic military vehicles, trucks, buses and other automobiles that in any other nation would result in the ban of such for these vehicles don?t measure up to international emission standards. Sub standard emission criterion together with impure fuel, combine to result in dangerous environmental conditions that are slowly eroding Kashmir away. Slowly but surely this once fabled and most beautiful of lands is becoming one of the most polluted.

But in the humdrum of daily life most of us of course don?t have the time or wisdom to take a step back from everything and realize all the aforementioned. We continue to move about these narrow, jam-packed roads as if nothing else in this world matters other than getting to our destination in the shortest possible time. Young adults with new motorbikes can often be seen zig-zagging through streets as if their Daddy owns the road and every living creature on there. They seem to hardly care about the possibility of getting into an accident due to their recklessness for their attitude often conveys that their family connections would take care of everything. Often a girl is seen sitting behind this leather adorned ?cool? motorbike guy with her arms holding fast to her beloved. And just like in Indian movies, they both seem to have no need for helmets for not only would it mess the jelled hair but would also prevent the damsel in the back from having her hair waving in the air as they speed through the street.

Moreover, if one doesn?t see the scenario of the bike, one can always see this same story being told in some Ford Ikon where the driver feels a sense of pride for having the broadest car on the road and not some small old Mauriti. God forbid if someone overtakes these young guys on their bikes or in their cars as that can be the biggest insult to their ego and given their pride a race of sorts can sometimes ensue. The chance of course being higher if there is a girl to impress. Motorbike or car, hanging out aimlessly with those of the opposite gender in relationships termed ?boyfriend/girlfriend? is not an uncommon happening in Kashmir anymore. And in all of this a whole generation seems to have totally forgotten the etiquettes of modesty and distance between the sexes that Islam so emphasizes. Inappropriate relationships between guys and girls to the worst possible extent are not totally unheard of in this once conservative society as these kids grow up watching MTV and the immorality packed Indian movies where decency is cheaply sold more and more for another Rupee of profit.

But such are often the stories on the higher end of society. For the rest of Kashmiris, such movie like life is far too distant a thing and thankfully so. But sadly these same common Kashmiris also have to suffer the exhaustion and risk of traveling in buses and other vehicles that are driven by the boldest and sometimes the deadliest of road warriors. Whether it is a Sumo or a bus, speed is something they crave because they feel that given the size of their vehicles, they are not prone to the same kind of accidents as those riding in those tiny toys. The size of their vehicle somehow seems to give them an inflated sense of their own physique such that in their arrogance and senselessness they put all their passengers in the gravest of dangers. These same drivers seem to think that given the huge vehicles they are in command of, they have somehow been given rights on the roads like no one else. Feeling like kings they want every one on the road to give way to their honk just like a commoner has to make way for royalty.

And often times there is an actual race between these buses to get to a bus stop earlier than the next bus driver so that they get the passengers waiting there. The dents that cover these buses are like bruises that often serve as testament to their careless and unsympathetic behaviors. And in their ignorance they take needless risks and become one of the most common causes of accidents. For those extra few Rupees from that one extra passenger, busses are packed far beyond capacity to the very detriment of its passengers. Often times these very buses are traveling through some of the most dangerous roads on this earth and the combination of arrogant and ignorant drivers, bad and curvy roads and busses packed to the brim results in some of the most dreadful of tragedies. As if the tragedy of the last fifteen years hasn?t been enough, roads and its users are creating some of the deadliest conditions in Kashmir so much so that not a day goes by that one doesn?t read of some young innocent soul?s untimely death in a road accident somewhere in Kashmir. But if a bus is involved, its of course more than one innocent soul that pays the price. Often tens of passengers are killed, having literally paid their way to this unfortunate end.

I could go on and on and on about the predicament of Kashmiris given all the above and more. I could further talk about the autos that move about in traffic like little mice scrambling for food and in the process create a nuisance for the rest. Or I could talk in depth about trucks and how they often seem like fast approaching stomping elephants in the rear view mirror and, like busses, are another big reason for casualties on the roads. And one could write pages upon pages on how the military vehicles in their convoys are like deadly army ants that, if left to their own whim, would not leave anything standing in their path. But all these stories, all these analogies and all the sarcasm that fills this article will do little to change the condition we seem to find ourselves in, let alone bring back all those who have died on the roads in accidents. It is the sad irony of life that despite each and everyone?s realization as to the conditions of our roads and us as a people, nothing really changes over time. We all seem to talk till we are at wits end about such issues but after another cup of noon chai with lavaasa, we seem to return to the same old, same old as if the salt in the tea serves as some kind of an amnesiac.

Noone can deny that as Kashmiris we have been through a lot. Those who have lived through the darkest of times in Kashmir under the military occupation deserve not just sympathy but more importantly respect. The rest of us who have been lucky enough to not have had to go through all the fear, humiliation, deaths, disappearances and pain among other things can never really understand the mindset of those who have had to bear all that and more. War and turmoil even if of a short duration has an enormous impact on the psyche of those directly in the midst of it. Post traumatic stress disorder is a well recognized consequence of such traumatic situations and given what Kashmiris in Kashmir have been through, it isn?t something that can be ignored. But while we can all discuss at great length the psychological and other implications of living through such tragic circumstances, we cannot delve on the past and its effects while at the same time not thinking about our future. We cannot place blame on our circumstances while not at the same time realizing our own faults as a people. Without a doubt the past sixteen years have taken a severe toll on Kashmiris, but we cannot ? and must not -- use that as an excuse to not do some much needed self reflection. The discussion on roads here is but to provide a glimpse into us as a people. It is but a path to think about all other things Kashmir so that we realize our short comings and at the very least think about ways we can all work together for a better and safer Kashmir.

No doubt that given the extent of the chaos in Kashmir, on the roads and otherwise, change has to be something from above. But as much as God will have a hand in bettering our condition and the government above can help, this change has to be something that comes from within each of us. As Kashmiris we can all hope and pray for the sincerity of the government in all things Kashmir, but we at the same time need to face the bleak reality that stands right before us. As individuals we cannot do anything but there is power in unity and power in numbers. A non-governmental organization needs to be started, if one doesn?t already exist, that lobbies and petitions the government to be more involved and create safer roads for everyone in Kashmir through both better and bigger roads and strict laws and regulations. This organization needs to take part in a massive information campaign such that even the most illiterate of drivers knows the basics of safe driving. With the help of the knowledgeable amongst us we can learn from what exists in other places in terms of road rules and regulations to create intelligent and well thought out policies. We need to get organized to start a revolution of sorts in the driving world of Kashmir such that checks and balances are in place and followed by all. There are numerous other things that can be done for as the old saying goes, where there is a will there is a way.

But as mentioned earlier, the change for being a better driver, a better Kashmiri and a better person in general has to first and foremost begin with each one of us. We can all continue to patiently wait for the government to get into the drivers seat and take us all to a better world, but as history has shown time and again, with the government even the peace bus fails to start when it comes to Kashmir. So let us first place trust in each other and believe in ourselves before we look to others or go looking for miracles. Let us first build our lives on principles of honesty and integrity before we start seeking ways to build better and more roads. Let us first be fair and moral before anything else. Let us help our downtrodden, the poor and the helpless before we get consumed in our own lavish wants and needs. Not that we necessarily become impeccably selfless and live below our means but that we at least give due consideration to the greater good..... whether it be in relation to our roads or everything else. And let us remember that what you and I do on the roads of Kashmir or on the road of life depends on no one else but you and I. Each one of us individually creates his or her destiny and in the end it is but our own self centered attitude in life that creates the problems we face as a people. Just like the journey of a thousand miles starts with one step, the change towards a better Kashmir, and for that matter a better world, starts with just one person?? and that one person is me, you?.. each one of us.