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Shakir Ali Museum


When I was in Pakistan last year I was fortunate enough to stumble across the Shakir Ali Museum. From the moment you set eyes on the building (formerly his house which he designed himself), you just know that there are more surprises instore.



Firstly, the building. Despite having the means to afford shiny new buildning materials, Shakir Ali deliberately chose 'burnt' bricks to build his house with, the ones that are found in the centre of the kiln. To look at they are dark and dirty making the whole house's facade give impression of resembling the inside of a used chimney and yet, it is very striking.



I remember standing across the road looking at the house and then looking on either side of it and at the houses on my side of the street and realising what a statement Shakir Ali's house made, by being in stark contrast to anything else on that street. The house was turned into a museum in 1976 to celebrate the life and work of Shakir Ali, a painter and art academic.



The house is entered through a heavy, black wooden door. I knocked on the door of the house and it was opened by a man who said I could come in and look around. I found black and white pictures framed on either side of the hall showing the artist in his lifetime meeting various personalities etc and directly infront of me, a huge monotone self portrait of him.



As I entered the rooms to the left I found that the man who let me in had disappeared and left me to my own devices. The living area had a number of items reminicent of the Arts and Crafts movement in Britain... A dinner set was displayed on the country styled table and a fine tea set sat on the dresser. The chairs had tall narrow backs and reminded me of the work of Charles Rennie Mackintosh. A beautiful and unusual stone wall to one side with perhaps a fireplace, though I cannot recall if that is just a figment of my imagination now...



I walked into a small room which seemed to be his bedroom, a single bed in one corner, cupboards with mirrors and all manners of artifacts around. I think there were some of his clothes laid out on the bed too...



Then up some steps to find a number of interlocking rooms used as gallery spaces for contemporary artists showcasing their works. I really enjoyed the show, it was amazing to see the sheer variety of artwork produced by Pakistani artists working in Pakistan, some were abstract pieces, some depicting rural scenes, some showing the jewel like architecture from bygone years.



The last room to the back of the house had huge narrow floor to ceiling arched windows with black leading. The ceiling was high and the room was light and airy and from the windows I could see a garden where about a dozen young people were sitting and standing reading and rehearsing a play.



Down a spiral staircase there were more paintings to be seen and a man on the phone with bubblewrap around him and his desk and a number of folders etc constituting his office for the upper galleries and displays of art, some of which had been sold and was awaiting collection.



The museum is not only used to showcase the life and some of the works of Shakir Ali but it's also become an arts centre, where all arts, music, acting etc are encouraged and taught. I never really expected such a place to exist outside of Universities, so it was very refreshing and eye-opening to witness.



Anyway, I visited it almost a year ago and just thought I'd put this up as I just happened to recall the experience!



(this has also been posted in the Lahories village)
 

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